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Located at the back of beyond?
NOT AS FAR AS EVERYBODY IS CONCERNED!
Two small hamlets grew opposite each other at the mouth of the Aude River. Each had its own history and its own charm. In the preserved surroundings of the Pissevaches lake, this is a rare and unique stopover. Enjoy it!
Was a comic film at the origin of the Chichoulet port? Everything is possible as reality and fiction sometimes merge together. In 1967, Robert Dhéry shot some of the most memorable scenes of his film Le Petit Baigneur (The Small Swimmer) with Louis de Funès and Michel Galabru between the mouth of the Aude River and the Chichoulet headland.
At that time, marshes and reeds invaded the mouth of the Aude River. Some boats sailed in the area where the most important element of the film was located – in addition to the famous yacht: a water hole where some of the funniest scenes of the film were shot in the pure tradition of Louis de Funès. Once the film was finished, the place was forgotten. Until some crackpots had the idea of reviving the industry of shellfish farming, which had been carried out under the Romans.
The adventure began in 1989 with eight shellfish farming companies which grouped together in a cooperative. I was one of them. Europe subsidised us, explained Gilbert Gaudy, master of the port, the port of Chichoulet has become famous thanks to the cooperative, even though, over the years, it has lost its initial spirit."
The renovation work on the site began with the restructuring of the jetties of the Aude River and the raising of the water hole. The port was operational in 1991. The originality of the site stems from the decision-makers’ desire to combine oysters and cockles: pleasure boating was associated with the project from its outset. One hundred berths were put into place for pleasure boating and eight shellfish farms used four pontoons and a dispath centre. Later, when the cooperative came a cropper, six shellfish farmers gave up their concern and three small coastal fishermen set up their business. A three-way combination which worked well.
So much so that in addition to the 110 berths which are available today, 100 more berths should be added by the end of 2009 with the help of the Regional Council of the Aude, together with a car park, new roads, a careening area… A dry port has already been built for 140 boats. It cannot be said that its location has a pleasant effect on the landscape… but Gilbert Gaudy is satisfied as the port has attracted a lot of people. "Here the people can enjoy nature in its natural form".
In any case, the best view is had from the left bank of the Aude River where Port Chichoulet is located. From it you can see the Fleury Cabins, in the direction of the Pissevaches lake, which is a protected zone and so should be! The port of Cabanes is not as modern as the port of Chichoulet, but the village has an undeniable charm.
When you arrive at Grau de Vendres, call Roger-Marc Barbier (04.68.33.74.31), who is the owner of the fantastic Lou Cabanaïre restaurant, and at the same time entertainments officer at the resort, the unofficial tourist office and a charming individual. He might allow you to double berth in front of his inn, if a "pêche au globe" (see below) has not been organised. The "pêche au globe", which uses large rectangular nets that are immersed along the full length of the river, is a great tradition and a moment of pure happiness.
This village, which was a simple hamlet of thatched cabins built from cob, has been able to develop without spoiling the beauty of the site, even if the pressure from the tourism industry is strong. Luckily the place has been kept as somewhat of a secret. Don’t tell anybody!
- Marilyn Beaufour and Christophe Naigeon
