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The Riou white shrine
The Riou archipelago, located south of Marseille harbour and off the Calanques massif, consists of four main islands and numerous islets. Since July 1992, it is owned by Conservatoire du Littoral, which has entrusted its management to an association, The Conservatoire-Etudes des Ecosystèmes de Provence.
Located in the Marseille city commune, the Riou archipelago is part of the Calanques classified site. These islands, which are often described as “huge white stones roasted by the sun and shaped by the sea winds”, are in fact a real sanctuary for many animal and plant species.
As early as in the fourteenth century, a lookout was installed at the Riou peak, it is partially ruined now. For almost four centuries, guards were posted there to raise the alarm to the sentry posts on the Marseilleveyre and La Garde summits, to warn of the approach of enemy fleets. In those days, goatherds landed with their animals on the islands, whose grasslands were leased by auction by Marseille city. The pressure of grazing had a deep impact on plant development for many centuries.
In the year 1794, the island chain became State property. The remains of lime-burning kilns show that the sparse brushwood on the islands was used for fuel.
SAND ON A TOBOGGAN
Sand was extracted on Riou during the the nineteenth century. A sledge made from dry stones allowed sand to be poured directly into tartanes (sailing boats) that brought it to the city where it was used for paving streets. This long history of human activities, together with geological and climatic changes together and nearness to the sea, led to the modern appearance of the Riou archipelago, and to the wide range of plants that are found now.
There is a very special dry microclimate there with very violent and frequent winds, and spindrifts. These, combined with the poverty of the soil, has led to the development of a flora of great originality. The islands consist mainly of limestone from the Tertiary, separated from the continent for more than 8000 years. The action of natural elements has sculpted spectacular mineral landscapes. The Northern slopes appear as hillsides covered with scarce brushwood mixed with scree, bare rocks and a clear-cut coastal vegetation of halophytes.
EXTREMELY RARE SPECIES
The Southern slopes display a completely mineral world divided by breathtaking cliffs plunging abruptly into the sea. So far, more than 320 plant species have been identified, 18 of which are protected by law. Most of them are endemic to the western part of Mediterranean basin, rare or very rare among French flora, but common or even abundant on the islands.
These plants are a feature of limestone or sandy coastal areas in the Mediterranean sea. They take refuge on the islands where they have been able to make a foothold, away from the tourists of Provence coast.
NO AUTHORIZED LANDING
Being a former military site, Riou island group has always been kept away from human interferance. Sheltered spots are numerous, so it is an ideal sanctuary for nesting sea birds. In fact, the islands provide a habitat for nearly 30 % of the French Cory’s shearwater population, and rather more than 14 % for the Mediterranean shearwater. It is also the only French site where European storm petrels breed. These pelagic birds belong to the albatross family; they spend the major part of their lives at sea and come back to ground only to reproduce. Recently, the archipelago also became home to the the Mediterranean shag.
In addition there are species typical to rocky environments and cliffs, such as the peregrine, the blue rock thrush, and the pallid swift.
The most common reptile on these islands is the leaf-toed gecko, a small lizard, endemic to this part of the Mediterranean sea. However, the increasing seagull population and the growth of species brought in by men ( rats, rabbits ) has disturbed the islands ecosystem.
In order to allow the preservation of the site’s biology, landing is restricted to the northern coasts of Jarre, Riou and Plane only. Traffic is restricted to two signposted paths on Riou.
